Bridle board

Bridle board and attaching flying lines

This is not 'rocket' science!

As a rough guide, when I make a primary with a loop at 1 end and
the other end bare, I allow 4-5cms after the mark at the bare end (to be
tied to the kite) and 1cm for the knot plus 4-5 cms for the loop at the
other end. I say 4-5 cms as it depends how nimble your fingers are at tying
the loops and knots. So as a guide, allow 10cms extra for every primary.
For the secondaries, which have a loop at each end, I allow 1cm for each
knot plus 4-5cms for each loop, giving approx. 10cm extra for each secondary
as well.

	My bridle board is a piece of wood nearly 5 feet long. I bought a cheap metal tape measure, cut the end off and taped it to the board. I put a panel pin in the board at 'zero' and started the tape about 1 inch from that.
	I sometimes use 100m reels of bridle line and spike them to the far end of the board for ease of use (otherwise they fall on the floor and roll away!).
	I tie my loop in the end of the bridle (see pic 1) then pull the line taught and mark the length with a permanent marker pen. This obviously is not accurate to the nearest 0.1mm, but I've not yet had a problem with any of the bridles I've built using this method. (and my sewing isn't that accurate either!)
	I allow about 5cm past my mark then cut the line whilst keeping it taught. If this end is to also have a loop in it, I add an extra 1cm for the knot and then mark. The '30' marked on the board is lined up with the '30 inches' on the tape as a check to ensure the tape has not slipped. The other numbers are for when I have a whole batch of the same length to make, usually for Eliminators.
	The loops from the secondaries are all attached to the flying points (the loops of pink line).
	Make a larks head loop in the sleeved end of your flying line.
	Put the larks head over the knot in the end of the flying point loop.
	Pull the larks head tight, repeat for the other lines. Use the same system to attach the flying lines to the handles. Go fly!